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    Home » Recipes » Blog

    Tsumago, an Edo era experience in Japan

    April 21, 2015 By Sara McCleary Updated November 11, 2020 - This post may contain affiliate links

    When you visit Japan why not take a little detour away from the tourist hot spots of Tokyo and Kyoto. Leave the bright lights behind and slip back into the Edo era for a day?

    Visiting Tsumago is the perfect way of doing this, it was once a post town (shukuba) on the Nakasendo route between Kyoto and Edo (modern day Tokyo). Visiting Tsumago is like taking a step back in time. The community take great care to preserve and recreate the Edo period feeling.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    For those that aren’t quite sure what a post town is, I should explain. Post towns existed during the Edo Period. They were towns where travellers could rest as they journeyed around the country. During the Meiji era, when Japan’s rail infrastructure and larger roads were built, these towns slowly disappeared due to lack of need.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    During the day you won’t see a car on the main street of Tsumago, they are prohibited. Traces of modern day living like phone lines and power cables are kept well concealed. This allows visitors to imagine they have truly slipped back in time.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago-Morning-4
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    Tsumago has also maintained its Honjin and Wakihonjin to really add to that post town feel. These were buildings that were found in all post towns.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago-Pot

    The Honjin was more like a large residence than a commercial inn or place to stay. It is where the samurai and court nobles stayed when they were travelling through town. The Wakihonjin was for those of us further down the food chain.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    As well as the Hojin and Wakihonjin you can also explore the Rekishi Shiroyokan, which is a rather extensive museum of Tsumago and the Kiso Valley. It is a really great collection of items on display and there are many English translations as well.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago-Red-Hats
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    No town would be complete without a temple. It is believed that the Kotokuji Buddhist temple was built in 1500. It’s a simple temple, but worth having a look around. The most interesting thing I found were the cats just past the entrance. I’m really not sure if they were stuffed or old realistic ‘toy’.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    There are shops where you can buy local produce, sake and souvenirs. A couple of cafes and a soba noodle restaurant where we had lunch on our first day.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    You can visit and spend the day in Tsumago, or do what we did and stay in a ryokan over night. Staying in a ryokan is really worth the experience in Tsumago. In fact you have no other option if you want to stay the night.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    During the day the little town is filled with tourists, who all vanish by the end of the day. That’s when you really feel like you have stepped back in time. You may get the odd car drive up the main street by a local, but the place really is dead quiet.

    We stayed at Fujioto Ryokan, which is situated right in the heart of the main street. Location doesn’t make that much difference, as when night falls as there really isn’t much to do but spend the evening in the ryokan. But that actually is really okay.

    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com

    It allows you truly immerse yourself in a ryokan experience. After spending the day walking around town, or walking from Magome to Tsumago, you have the opportunity to freshen up and enjoy a hot bath before dinner.

    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com

    Check in at Fujioto is at 3pm, and management advise you should arrive before 5pm as dinner (included in your accommodation) starts promptly at 6pm. Vegetarians take note, they do not make vegetarian meals. And I must say I applaud them to sticking to their guns. The evening meal is a traditional one comprising of local dishes using local and in season produce. Very much like you would have enjoyed when Tsumago was a functioning post town.

    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com

    As Fujioto is a traditional ryokan, there are no en-suite facilities. Just like traditional Japanese inns, bathing and toilet facilities are shared. Of course they are also spotlessly clean.

    The family that run Fujioto are delightful. You are made to feel right at home from the moment you arrive. They are very helpful in regard to any questions you may have about staying with them as well as Tsumago and the surrounding area.

    After a day of travel and exploring Tsumago we did make use of the Hinoki bath that is made from scented Kiso Valley cypress wood. It smelt amazing! It was pure relaxation just sinking into it and chilling for a while.

    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com

    With skin freshly pink, plump and relaxed from a long bath we had a little walk around the garden before heading to dinner.

    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com

    Dinner was everything that I hoped it would be and more. We ordered sake to go with our meal, an extra cost but well worth it.

    Tempura
    Tempura
    Seasonal soured pickles
    Seasonal soured pickles
    Local chicken Osuimono soup
    Local chicken Osuimono soup
    Seasonal boiled vegetable
    Seasonal boiled vegetable
    When limited Japanese and sign language fail, a session of show and tell to confirm what vegetable we are eating.
    When limited Japanese and sign language fail, a session of show and tell to confirm what vegetable we are eating.
    Tasting plate of local specialities, including wasp larvea
    Tasting plate of local specialities, including wasp larvea
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    salmon sashimi
    Gohei mochi, a local dish speciality.
    Gohei mochi, a local speciality
    Grilled trout (char)
    Grilled trout (char)
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    They even de-boned it at the table for us
    Hoba miso Shinsyu beef steak
    Hoba miso Shinsyu beef steak, we each had an individual one which was cooked a the table
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Dessert, green tea cake and fruit
    Dessert, green tea cake, coffee jelly and fruit

    After dinner the decision was made to go for a walk around the main street of Tsumago and experience it at night. There was not a soul around and the place is very dark. Some light escaped from houses’ shuttered wooden windows and there were a few lights here and there as we walked. It was like a ghost town and a little spooky. I had the feeling a ninja would jump out at any minute, but then again that could have been the effect of the sake. I have a very vivid imagination at the best of times.

    Tsumago-Night
    A local drove by to light up my photo
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    Back to our rooms and bedding had been laid out ready for us. Yes, it’s traditional style bedding, mattresses rolled out on the tatami matt covered floor. We were actually very comfortable and had a brilliant night sleep. Be warned though, the walls are thin and you can hear what is happening in the room next to you…………

    Up bright and early after a comfortable sleep it was time for breakfast (also included). Breakfast is also traditional Japanese style. And it was just as enjoyable as dinner.

    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Fujioto Ryokan Tsumago | www.bellyrumbles.com

    Accommodation prices start from Y10,800 – Y12,960 per person and this includes an amazing dinner and breakfast.

    To get to Tsumago you will need to make your way to Nagiso train station from Nagoya or Nagano. Not all trains stop at Nagiso, so make sure yours does. From Nagiso station you will need to catch the local bus Y300 (the service is infrequent), or catch a taxi that costs Y1000, I recommend this.

    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com
    Tsumago Kiso Valley Japan | www.bellyrumbles.com

    If you are planning to do the Magome to Tsumago walk make sure you catch the train from Nagano, but more on that next Tsumago post.

    Sara xxx

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    Reader Interactions

    Comments

    1. mark wyld

      May 23, 2016 at 7:01 pm

      what a great way to preserve traditional life and give outside tourists a taste of traditional japan it looks amazing and would have been an amazing experience. Your photo really brings it to life

      Reply
    2. Jenna

      May 23, 2016 at 2:47 pm

      Looks like you had a wonderful time! This town sounds adorable. It kind of reminds me of a small town we visited called Shibu Onsen. Staying in a ryokan is so amazing, and you brought back some great memories of our stay in one! The food you had looks delicious--I love that they make such fantastic meals and that they are included with the price of the stay!

      Reply
    3. Vicki Louise

      May 23, 2016 at 2:00 pm

      Edo looks so traditional and cute - love all the wooden buildings - it's like something from a different era! What a great way to get out of the big cities! And the food - man oh man - you'd have to roll me back to my hotel each night!

      Reply
    4. Mansoureh Farahani

      May 23, 2016 at 6:04 am

      Your photos are amazing. It is good they don't let the car and modern car appear in the town, so the visitors can have a time traveling ( I mean kinda)

      Reply
    5. Jen

      May 22, 2016 at 7:45 pm

      What a funky cool place! So many unusual things (which makes traveling to a new place all the more fun). I could really see myself there. Bookmarking for my future travel list. Heading over to check out your recipes!

      Reply
    6. Toni | 2 Aussie Travellers

      May 22, 2016 at 5:22 pm

      We love to visit these smaller towns when we're in Japan and the meal you enjoyed looks incredible. My taste buds keep taking me back to the fabulous Japanese flavours from your wonderful photos.

      Reply
    7. Monika

      May 21, 2016 at 11:52 pm

      From a tourist's point of view, it seems like a great idea to prohibit all the cars during the day to bring back the old feeling of the place! How many times I wander the streets of old friends trying to imagine how the would look like I'd only cars suddenly disappeared! I'd love to see the place!

      Reply
    8. Marta

      May 21, 2016 at 11:40 pm

      This looks really beautiful and matches exactly the kind of mental image I have of Japan. I was only briefly in Tokyo and Kyoto, for work, and it was fabulous but, as you say, touristy: if I ever go back to Japan, as I hope, I'd love to stretch to here and in that case would take your advice and stay the night(also because that dinner really tempts me!!)

      Reply
    9. Carly

      May 21, 2016 at 9:27 pm

      I'm shaking with immense jealously right now. The experience you had is something I so desperately want. Thankfully I'll be able to talk my boyfriend into visiting Japan with me. The food in your photo's looks immense.

      Reply
    10. RaW | Ramble and Wander

      May 21, 2016 at 8:13 pm

      I love the show and tell session to confirm the vegetable, haha! I imagine it's a pretty common occurrence whilst in Japan? It's one of the things that make me unsure about travelling solo to Japan but I guess I should give it a shot some time soon!

      Reply
    11. Sara

      June 20, 2015 at 3:43 am

      Responding to test comment.

      Reply
    12. Dani @ House in Tillford

      May 07, 2015 at 1:45 am

      How beautiful! That experience would be wonderful. I went to a Japanese Spa in the Blue Mountains in Australia, somehow it was not quite the same haha

      Reply
    13. Nuts about food

      April 30, 2015 at 9:43 am

      How fascinating, I have always been intrigued by Japan and its culture and would love to visit this place: who knows when, since I am on the other side of the world. Your description and photos really make me feel like I experienced it with you. Thanks!

      Reply
    14. john | heneedsfood

      April 28, 2015 at 8:12 am

      Now this is the Japan I see when I eventually get there. What a wonderful place to visit and stay. I'm wondering what kind of food may be in those grass parcels in the shop?

      Reply
    15. Helen|Grab Your Fork

      April 26, 2015 at 11:40 pm

      Gah at the airport now on my way to Japan and I can't wait. Definitely looking forward to our ryokan meals.

      Reply
    16. [email protected]

      April 24, 2015 at 6:16 am

      The timing of this post couldn't be any better - I'm getting truly excited for my trip to Japan next week now. 😉

      Reply
    17. Hotly Spiced

      April 22, 2015 at 4:22 am

      I have never been to Japan and really must get there one day soon. I wondered what was 'different' about the images and then realised there are no power lines and no cars to be seen. What a great idea and doesn't it make the town look even more beautiful. I was so sorry to hear you lost your beautiful Sally xx

      Reply

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    photo of Sara McCleary, Founder, Belly Rumbles culinary travel blog

    Well hello there! I’m Sara McCleary a food photographer, creative recipe developer, and avid traveller (when the World isn’t in a pandemic).

    Welcome to Belly Rumbles, my slice of the Internet.

    I share Recipes discovered or inspired by my adventures and family favourites too! Come join me on my culinary adventure.

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